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What You'll Need Before You Start
A DIY electric bike conversion using a Voltebyk kit takes 60–120 minutes with no prior mechanical experience. No soldering, no welding — just plug-and-play connectors and standard bicycle tools.
Tools Required
- Adjustable spanner (15mm) — for axle nuts
- Phillips screwdriver — for handlebar clamps
- Allen key set (4mm, 5mm) — for brake lever and display mounts
- Tyre levers (2–3) — to seat the tyre on the new motor wheel
- Floor pump with pressure gauge — to inflate to correct PSI
- Cable ties (included in Voltebyk kit) — for wire management
What's in Your Voltebyk Kit Box
- Motorised rear hub wheel (pre-laced, ready to fit)
- Lithium-Ion battery + charger (if ordered with battery)
- Controller (waterproof box)
- Throttle + Pedal Assist Sensor (PAS)
- Sensor brake levers (pair)
- LED display unit
- Light & horn unit with switch
- Ignition key lock
- Pre-wired colour-coded harness
- Mounting brackets and hardware
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Remove the Old Rear Wheel
Shift gears to the smallest sprocket at the rear. Use your 15mm spanner to loosen the rear axle nuts on both sides. For bikes with quick-release: open the lever and remove. Unhook the rear brake cable if it's a rim brake. Slide the wheel out from the rear dropout.
Tip: Note which side the gears (cassette) sit on before removal — the motor wheel must go in the same orientation.
Step 2: Transfer the Tyre to the Motor Wheel
Remove the tyre and inner tube from your old wheel. Fit them onto the new motorised hub wheel using tyre levers. Inflate to the recommended PSI printed on the tyre sidewall (usually 45–65 PSI for MTBs). Insert the motor axle cable through the centre of the wheel so it exits cleanly.
Step 3: Install the Motor Wheel
Slide the motor wheel into the rear dropout. The motor cable should exit from the non-drive side (opposite to gears). Position the axle washers on both sides, then hand-tighten the axle nuts. Check the wheel is centred in the frame (equal gap on both sides), then fully tighten both nuts to 25–30 Nm torque.
Safety: Under-tightened axle nuts are the most common cause of kit failures. Confirm by trying to spin the axle by hand — it should not rotate.
Step 4: Mount the Battery
Mount options depend on your battery variant:
- Frame mount: Slides onto the downtube or seat tube with the included bracket. Locks with the ignition key.
- Rear rack mount: Sits on top of the rear rack (if your bike has one). More stable for heavier 10Ah/15Ah batteries.
Route the battery cable toward the bottom bracket area — this is where it will connect to the controller.
Step 5: Mount the Controller
Use the included velcro straps or bracket to mount the controller box on the frame (typically the downtube or under the top tube). The controller box must be accessible but out of the way of moving parts. Connect the battery cable to the controller — it's a keyed connector so it only goes in one direction.
Step 6: Connect Motor to Controller
Run the motor cable (coming from the rear wheel) toward the controller. Voltebyk uses colour-coded 3-phase motor connectors (yellow, blue, green) and Hall sensor connectors (5-pin plug). Match colours and click to connect. The Hall sensor connector clicks audibly when fully seated.
Important: Never force a connector. All Voltebyk connectors are keyed — if it doesn't go in easily, check the orientation.
Step 7: Install Handlebar Components
Remove your existing brake levers. Install the new sensor brake levers in their place (right side = rear brake, left side = front brake — standard Indian convention). Slide the throttle onto the right handlebar grip position. Mount the LED display on the stem using the included clamp. Connect all handlebar components to the controller harness — each connector is uniquely keyed.
Step 8: Install PAS (Pedal Assist Sensor)
The PAS disc mounts to the bottom bracket area on the crank side. Attach the magnet disc to the crank arm with the included zip ties. The sensor mounts to the frame near the bottom bracket and connects to the controller harness.
Step 9: Wire Management
Use the included cable ties to bundle all wires neatly along the frame. Keep wires away from moving parts (chain, pedals, wheel spokes). Leave enough slack in the handlebar area to allow full steering without pulling wires taut.
Step 10: First Power-On Test
Before riding, do a stationary test:
- Insert ignition key and turn to ON position
- Press the display power button — display should illuminate and show battery level
- Lift the rear wheel off the ground and gently twist the throttle — the wheel should spin
- Squeeze a brake lever — the wheel should stop immediately (sensor brake test)
- Pedal slowly with PAS on — the motor should assist without throttle input
If all 5 tests pass, you're ready to ride.
Common Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Motor doesn't spin | Hall sensor disconnected | Re-seat 5-pin Hall connector |
| Motor spins but jerky | Phase wires mismatched | Swap any two phase connectors |
| Display shows no battery | Battery not charged / key off | Charge battery, check ignition |
| Brakes don't cut motor | Brake sensor not connected | Plug brake sensor into harness |
| Error code on display | See manual or contact support | WhatsApp Voltebyk support |
After Installation: Your First Ride Checklist
- Start on a quiet road at Assist Level 1 (lowest power)
- Test brakes at 10 kmph before increasing speed
- Check all axle nuts again after 5 km (they settle under load)
- Re-check tyre pressure after the first ride
- Register your kit warranty at Voltebyk for support coverage
Get Your Kit
Everything described in this guide is covered in the official Voltebyk conversion guide. The kit itself is available at voltebyk.in/electric-cycle-kit with full home delivery, 1-year warranty, and after-installation support.
Ready to Build Your E-Bike?
All tools tips in this guide work with every Voltebyk kit. Order now, convert this weekend.
Get the Conversion Kit →_hfSxSIDc6C.avif?tr=w-1200%2Cq-75%2Cf-auto%2Cpr-true%2Cc-at_max)
